Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport
Author: Ben R. Finney
Surfing traces the history of the sport from its beginnings in ancient Hawaii through the mid 1960s.
This revised edition of the 1966 classic features extensive illustrations, a new introduction, and articles by Mark Twain and Jack London recounting their observations on surfing.
The book also explores the development of the surfboard and follows surfing's timeline from the earliest legends to the accomplishments of modern surfing heroes.