Do you remember your first wave? Can you go back in time to the ride of your life? What memories have you got of those endless surfing summers? Take a deep breath and dive into a collection of stories that made us surfers.
The biggest wave. The best wave. A wave shared with a couple of friends. That unforgettable wipeout. The smell of wax. The sunset session. The best surfing day of your life.
Joseph Tomarchio, the man behind "Legacy of Stoke," has compiled and edited a compendium of 12 surfing narratives revealed by people touched by the power of dancing on water.
"Mo'olelo is the Hawaiian word for 'story.' More literally, Mo'o means 'succession' while olelo means 'words'. In my mind, the story of surfing has always been a Mo'olelo," Tomarchio writes in the book's introduction.
"A narrative of our tribe passed from one member to another. The first volume is a collection of stories from everyday surfers that you sit next to in the line-up."
In "Legacy of Stoke" you will surely (re)discover yourself. Alone with everybody, or accompanied by friends and unknown wave riders. The book is full of beautiful memories and images of the past, punctuated by elements that confirm that surfing will be part of our future.
Have you got a remarkable surf story? Write an email to Joseph Tomarchio, and he might get your words into the upcoming volume of his book series.