One of the most famous war movies ever, "Apocalypse Now," hides several surfing secrets, memories, and conversations.
The epic film, released in 1979, featured a few surfing scenes in the middle of napalm, gunshots, and explosions.
Ten years ago, "Apocalypse Now Redux" unveiled even more surfing.
One of the stars of the waves is "Lance" B. Johnson, a famous blond and tanned Southern California surfer champion.
"It's unbelievable; it's just tube city," says Lieutenant Colonel Bill Kilgore (Robert Duvall).
Later, as choppers are menaced by Vietcong rockets and gunfire, surfboards are loaded on the side of the command helicopter.
After destroying the waterfront Vietcong-controlled coastal village, Kilgore is looking forward to riding the "six-foot swells."
He asks a soldier: "You want to surf, soldier?... That's good, soldier, 'cause you either surf or fight, is that clear?"
Then, the mad Lieutenant shows Lance the unusually great surfing conditions. "One guy can break right; one left simultaneous."
Where Are the Surfboards?
But isn't it dangerous to surf during war times? The answer is clear.
"If I say it's safe to surf this beach, Captain, it's safe to surf this beach. I'm not afraid to surf this place", says Bill Kilgore while ripping off his own shirt.
No need to panic. In order to make the surfing beach even safer from sniper fire, he orders an additional airstrike with napalm along the tree line.
A few years ago, the two surfboards used in "Apocalypse Now" were auctioned.
One of them was a pintail model bearing the decal and logo of master shaper Reynolds Yater. The other was kept by director Francis Ford Coppola.
In fact, the precise origin of the two boards is still a mystery more than 30 years after the release of the film.
The extra footage released in 2011 includes the "Charlie's Point" surfing sequence.
The scene was filmed in the little seaside town of Baller, in the Philippines. Absolutely incredible movie. "Charlie don't surf."