Dusty Payne: preparing a power surfing comeback

Dusty Payne has entered the pit lane. The 23-year old Hawaiian surfer suffered a boring injury during last year's O'Neill Coldwater Classic, at Santa Cruz, and is still away from the hypest racing lanes of the Tour.


In fact, Payne does not know when he is authorized to hit the water with this power surfing skills. The injury proved worse than initially imagined and since then, it’s been plasma transfusions, Nike scientists and the ever-painful waiting game.

Dusty also believes that modern surfing is pushing too much the athlete's ankles and knees, while pulling aerials and sharp carves.

“With surfing the way it is now, ankles and knees are going left and right. They're not made to do those kinds of things that guys are doing... unless you're Kelly Slater. But it's going to happen, and you have to be a man about it, deal with it and take time off, lick your wounds and get healthy", he told our friends at Surfline.

"It was my first heat in the event and I did a little lien air and backwash hit me as I landed and jammed the foot back upwards and compressed it really bad. I kept surfing on it ’cause I pretty much had to requalify", reveals Dusty Payne.

After the 2011 Triple Crown of Surfing, the young Hawaiian kept enjoying waves until he realized there was something wrong with his leg. He stopped, entered physical rehab and is still recovering from the whole thing.

"I'll know when my ankle is 100% and right now I'd probably say my ankle is 50% at best".