Owen Wright 

The third day of the waiting period saw seven heats only take place in the early morning, the outgoing tide delivering some fun and clean waves until the dead-low tide made the conditions uncontestable. Some two to three foot (0.5 to 1 meter) sets allowed for some top seeds to kick off their French campaign, current ASP World Qualifying Series (WQS) No. 4 Owen Wright (Sydney, AUS), 19, securing his berth into Round 3 of competition.

Also advancing today were rising Californian star Nat Young (USA), 17, and renowned progressive surfer Eric Geiselman (Florida, USA), both American surfers showing solid surfing to secure their Round 3 ticket along with the day’s top scorer Yadin Nicol (Western Australia, AUS).

Geiselman, who was surfing for the first time ever in France today, was at ease in the tricky fast breaking waves posting a promising 13.07 point heat result including an 8.17 point ride, the day’s second best wave. The 20-year-old surfer, who managed to win Heat 7 ahead of former ASP Top 45 surfer Travis Logie (Durban, ZAF), left the water relieved.

“I felt pretty slow actually but I am stoked to make it through,” Geiselman said. “The waves were very challenging but I just tried to surf smart and get the better waves I guess. I am happy because I have never been to France before and I like the place a lot.”

Geiselman, who has built a reputation on his spectacular surfing and a complete repertoire of flying maneuvers, used smart heat tactics today to win his event starter and will definitely be one to count with when the new swell delivers clean walls at Lacanau.

“I have been enjoying my time so far here and I hope I can get a few points and be able to get in the Hawiian Triple Crown at the end of this year,” Geiselman said. “The waves are okay, we’ve had fast walls to longer though flatter conditions but it’s fun overall. I will start full-time on the WQS next year for sure so I am trying to enjoy myself here.”

One of today’s surprises was the heat win of Medi Veminardi (REU), 18, the Reunion Island born surfer already achieving his best result ever by advancing through to Round 3 of the ASP WQS 6-Star event. Veminardi, who was able to post 14.00 points to best current ASP World Tour surfer David Weare (Durban, ZAF), eliminated favorite Pablo Paulino (BRA) and fellow island surfer Damien Chaudoy.


NY Surf Film Festival | Power Of Three, by Ross Cairns 

New York Surf Film Festival Presented by JetBlue Airways and The Dominican Republic has put the final touches on this years festival Feature program which features sixteen films with filmmakers from the across the globe. This premier showcase of feature length surf films screens September 25th – 27th, 2009 at Tribeca Cinemas in Lower Manhattan.

The 2009 NY Surf Film Festival Feature Program provides a range of cinematic viewpoints, from biographies of notable surfers overcoming personal barriers, to controversial dark adventures to uncover historical surf spots and the necessary illegal means to keep them running, to rising above the racial and gender invisible boundaries to the surprising unlikely locales and environments that have spawned surfing communities.

“I can’t believe how many incredible films are out there. This years program is going to propel peoples’ perceptions to a completely new height and understanding of what a surf film can be,” said Tyler Breuer, co-founder of the New York Surf Film Festival.


Powers of Three, by Ross Cairns, Fergal Smith, Tom Lowe and Mickey Smith are going against the grain of the norm, they are seeking out the biggest, the heaviest, most unpredictable and hidden breaks around Ireland Why? Because they are Artists, they are driven by an unquenchable passion for their art and never choose the easy route. Powers of Three is a documentary that follows three remarkable guys as they pioneer and conquer Irish waves through the bleak winter months.

A Pleasant Surprise, by Kyle Pahlow, offers an honest look at the talents of a select group of surfers who live in a truly special part of the United States. Almost three years in the making, this film documents a world of contrast as daily changes in weather and waves prove to be all part of a larger picture; thumping beach breaks, cold water, and quick tropical storms are just a fraction of what you will find. Brought to you in Super 16mm, A Pleasant Surprise allows for the full beauty of this region and its surfers to be realized. Starring New Jersey’s top professional & amateur surfers Ian Bloch, Luke Ditella, Andrew Gesler, Sam Hammer, Zach Humphries, Chris Kelly, Rob Kelly, Matt Keenan, Ben McBrien, Jamie Moran, Tommy Petriken, Randy Townsend & Brendan Willem


Grant Baker surfs huge wave at Dungeons 

An El Niño condition may be brewing, but in the Southern Hemisphere there is no more waiting as extraordinary storms have been a regular occurrence over the last several weeks, generating some of the most intense surf seen in years.  Most recently, one of the biggest and best swells to ever hit South Africa arrived last Sunday, producing more eye-popping entries into the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards fueled by Monster Energy.  Those latest photographs may be viewed on the BillabongXXL.com website.

This was the third significant swell to strike the region in ten days, sparking a series of key sessions at the spooky big wave break of Dungeons, off of Cape Town.  A warm-up swell hit the region on August 6, followed by a huge and windy episode on August 11 which saw some massive tow-in waves worthy of the XXL Biggest Wave category.  And on August 16 yet another enormous swell arrived, but this time with pristine sunny weather and light offshore winds -- every surfer's ideal scenario.

According to Surfline forecaster Ken Wallis, "A large complex low pressure system was spinning in the South Atlantic this past week, occupying most of the ocean between South Africa and Argentina. As a result of this consistent storm activity, a series of XXL size southwest swells have been slamming the West Coast of South Africa and, more specifically, the big wave break Dungeons.