Breaking waves: 1/7 ratio between wave height and wavelength

The breaking of waves is studied by fluid dynamics, a sub-discipline of physics that studies the science behind liquids and gases.

Scientists have concluded that waves break when their amplitude reaches a critical level that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy, like a ball rolling down the hill.

In other words, when waves reach shallow waters - usually near coastlines - they increase in height, and their crests meet the Law of Gravitation. The waves break. That is what wave shoaling tells us.

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Death 2 Hipsters: that is not cool

Hipsters can ruin everything. Even in the surf. That is why Alex De Phillipo promises "Death 2 Hipsters".

Prepare to laugh out loud. The surf movie "Death 2 Hipsters" comes with no synopsis, "because synopses are too mainstream, and that's just not 'kewl'."

De Phillipo, who also produced "Dark Fall", says that no actual hipsters were harmed in the making of this movie, but we're not sure of that. In "Death 2 Hipsters", you'll see large bold glasses, Taliban beards, and retro shirts. And we almost forgot: yes, waves too.

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Randy Rarick: the real King of the Triple Crown

Randy Rarick, Larry Bertlemann, Mike Haley, John Van Hamersveld, Phyliss O'Donnell, and Vince Moorhouse will be inducted into the Surfing Walk of Fame, on the 31st July, 2014, at Huntington Beach.

The votes have been counted. The 100-year anniversary of surfing in Huntington Beach will write the name of six legendary surfers in the history books.

Bertlemann (Surf Champion), Rarick (Surf Pioneer), Van Hamersveld (Surf Culture), O'Donnell (Women of the Year), Haley (Local Hero) and Moorhouse (Honor Roll) will earn their immortal place in the pavement on the corner of PCH and Main Street, directly across from the famous pier in Surf City USA.

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