Garrett McNamara: paddling into hell at Mavericks

Garrett McNamara has nearly survived a heavy wipeout at Mavericks, Half Moon Bay, in Northern California.

The Hawaiian big wave surfer paddled into one of the biggest Mavericks waves of all time, air-dropped it, rode it for a couple of seconds and then and fell into the abyss about halfway down the face of the giant.

McNamara, 48, bodysurfed the remaining part of the wave until getting caught by the massive whitewater avalanche. The Guinness World Record holder was immediately rescued and pulled out of the water by a jet ski.

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Aurelio Prieto: competing at the ISA World Masters Surfing Championship | Photo: Gonzales/ISA

Ecuadorian big wave surfer Aurelio Prieto has passed away while surfing two-meter waves in Manta, Ecuador.

"The Negro," 54, was catching waves with a few fellow surfers when a sneaky wave broke and dragged them around. According to the witnesses, Prieto was pulled into the bottom of the sea, and he may have hit it with his head.

He was found unconscious by his friends Raúl Cabrera and Fernando Alvarado, who took him out of the water and carried him to the beach. A group of firefighters tried to revive Aurelio Prieto, but it was impossible. He was declared dead soon after.

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Riding Giants: one of the most important surf movies of all time

John Engle believes that the film has played a central role in the emerging surfing subculture. In his book "Surfing in the Movies: A Critical History," the author analyzes the fruitful relationship between motion pictures and the sport of riding waves, with their hidden details and messages as core ingredients.

The history of surfing is incredibly rich. In the past 100 years, surfing became more than a sport. It grew into a culture, a cult, a lifestyle, and industry. America helped boost surfing around the world. The Californian surf myth also gave birth to brands, businesses and new needs for new markets.

Hollywood watched the whole surfing scene develop, and acted accordingly when independent surf filmmakers proved they could sell out theaters in the main coastal towns and cities. When the giant film houses dropped in, surfing never stopped being a lucrative field.

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