Bruce Gold: the true surfing hippie

Bruce Gold has been living a hippie surfing life for more than 40 years. Discover the legend who collects shells, and once surfed with Miki Dora.

The surf industry has never had a room for Bruce Gold. Not that he cares. Surfing's status quo breathes young, tanned, and good-looking role models. And Bruce never fit in mainstream surfing.

Today, he enjoys an occasional spliff, goes surfing several times a day, and keeps monitoring the surf conditions. Nature is his habitat, and meditation is part of his daily activities. Not the regular weekend warrior, is he?

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Surfing: a religion, a lifestyle, an addiction | Photo: Shutterstock

Though the iconic illustration of a surfer is one of a peaceful individual living a simple life, the reality often requires some sacrifices and a lifestyle quite removed from that as viewed by non-surfers.

Actually, living a surfer's lifestyle is not about how exactly you appear; the things you wear or simply getting a surfboard tucked under your arm. It is just about a mindset, commitment to the ocean and accepting the fact that almost everything needs to take second place the instant the waves start to roll in.

People who have fully committed themselves to surfing usually tend to do this in one of two ways - by relocating to the ocean and surfing at a devoted break day in and day out or by giving up the usual trappings of life and traveling the entire world in a continuous search for the perfect wave.

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Gabriel Medina: barreled in paradise | Photo: Sloane/WSL

Gabriel Medina has taken out the Fiji Pro 2016, in huge wave conditions at Cloudbreak.

The Brazilian surfer defeated Matt Wilkinson in the final held in firing 10-to-12 foot surf. For many, it was the biggest day of surfing of the season so far.

Medina built his heat total with two consecutive solid scores - a 7.33 and an 8.27 - and put Wilkinson in a situation from which he would never recover.

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