Surfing and Health
"Surfing and Health" was written by Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz back in 1997. Doc advocates a basic diet, free from the crap we sling into our vessels, and simple breezy exercise. Like surfing.
Through a series of anecdotes and personal epiphanies mostly surfing-based, "Doc" will blow your mind with the most common-sense approach to eating and living and exercising you'll ever read.
"Surfing and Health" is part story, part physiology lesson, part body-mechanics, self-help and radical motivator.
Health is much, much more than just not being sick. Health is the presence of a Superior State of Well Being - a vigor, a vitality, which must be worked for each and every day of your life.
Health can vanquish illness, prevent disease, promote prosperity; and lengthen life. How do you acquire health? That is the essential content of this book.