I Surf, Therefore I Am: A Philosophy of Surfing
This is the first book about surfing ever written by a philosopher.
The author, a 70-year-old surfanatic, has been Professor of Philosophy at Boston College for over 40 years and has written 50 other books on philosophy, religion, and culture. But compared to this one, the others are nothing but straw.
It gives ten compelling existential reasons why everyone should surf: reasons from the great philosophers: Moses, Buddha, Confucius, Lao Tzu, Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Jesus, Machiavelli, Freud, and George Morey.
It explains how surfing is the easiest and most delightful way in the world to attain what you most deeply long for, for it can make you good, mystical, peaceful, wise, heavenly, happy, sexy, and even rich.
It also contains a manifesto defending bodyboarding as true surfing, not "sponging", and a short handbook of seven practical lessons for beginners in this noble art.
The book is suffused with the offbeat and unpredictable humor that characterizes both the sea herself and those who have fallen in love with her.