Surf Science: An Introduction To Waves For Surfing
Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out?
Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break?
If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, "Surf Science" is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view.
It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Tony Butt has a PhD in Physical Oceanography from the University of Plymouth, UK, and worked with the Coastal Processes Research Group at Plymouth for seven years.
He has published 12 papers in peer-reviewed scientific journals and over 200 other articles on waves and the coastal environment for a non-scientific audience, plus several chapters, forewords and other contributions.