Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface
The sea attacks relentlessly, marshaling the force of its powerful waves against the land's strongest points.
It collects the energy of distant winds and transports it across thousands of miles of open ocean as quietly rolling swell.
On nearing shore this calm disguise is suddenly cast off, and the waves rise up in angry breakers, hurling themselves against the land in final furious assault.
The two combatants - waves and beaches - are the heroes of this book. Written by Willard Bascom.