What surfing means to me
Do you remember the first time you rode a wave? What did you feel? How would you describe the feeling of walking on water? We want to know what surfing means to you.
For many, it happened 20 years ago. For others, it's been 10 years. A small minority started last year. But the indescribable feeling of gliding across the water is unforgettable.
A large number of surfers from around the world caught the first wave of their lives on a beautiful summer day, with a blue sky that blended in with the blue of the ocean. Others have gained courage and paddled out on a gray winter day.
The first day of surfing is, for most surfers, one of the happiest days of their lives. The simple act of getting up on a surfboard and letting ourselves slide on a wave is something that we carry with us for the rest of our lives.
Surfing can be life changing. Almost always for the better. The contact with the sea water, with the beach, and with the fauna and flora that surround the waves, is good for our bodies and purifies our mind.
Surfing is many things at the same time - indescribable feelings, joy, friendships, a source fear, a spiritual connection, and a path to self-discovery. Each one of us - and we are more than 20 million surfers worldwide - has a formula, an explanation, and a unique and intimate relationship with surfing.
Some people do not consider surfing a sport. There are those who refuse to see it as an industry, and there are also a few who live it as a religion. Be that as it may, surfing heals. Surfing is good for your body and soul.
And because there are so many meanings for surfing as surfers in the world, we invite you to share your thoughts with the world and inspire future generations to keep the spirit of surfing alive.
So, what is surfing for you? Share your aloha spirit with the world.
Leave your comment below or send us an email with your story, or heartfelt sentence. Let's build a comprehensive list of testimonials.
What surfing means to...
For me, surfing is an experience for those who appreciate spending time with themselves.
Anne Coste - Biarritz, France
Surfing is my way of being alone with everybody.
Luke Parker - Huntington Beach, USA
Without surfing, I'm nothing.
Andy Braxton - Noosa, Australia
I started surfing in the early 1990s, and my first surfboard was a Mike Davis with a retractable fin system. Unfortunately, it is the only board in my quiver that I don't own anymore because I sold it when I was young to buy my second dream stick. I would love to buy it back.
Luis de Freitas - Porto, Portugal
I met the love of my life on the day I surfed my first wave.
Logan McCalister - Newquay, England
Surfing opened my eyes to the world, and it made me a more tolerant person.
Anela Kalua - Oahu, Hawaii
My first wave on a surfboard made me so happy that I decided to sell my bodyboarding equipment on the same day.
Joao Wiendl - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil