Why you should never give up surfing
- 22 December 2017 | Surfing
Relationships, work, health, relocations, aging, or even desire can keep you out of the surf, but there's not one valid reason for one to give up on surfing.
"He who is tired of surfing is tired of life." The original quote had London instead of surfing, but the adaptation fits in perfectly.
People go through cycles and moods throughout life. Sometimes, it just doesn't feel like what it used to be anymore. The thrill is gone, our friends aren't surfing on a regular basis, and you feel dramatically alone in the line-up.
One day you're standing up on a wave for the first time, the other day you think that there are better things to do than be in the water waiting for Nature to send a few waves.
When we're young, there are a lot of things that might distract us from surfing. You've got friends, girlfriends and boyfriends, parties, and summer festivals.
A few years later, college absorbs you like a sponge, and you're immediately driven to plan a successful career.
It's easy to miss the golden swells, and the days that could've given you memorable surf sessions. Time flies and waves come and go. In a blink of an eye, you're a member of the 9-to-6 club, married, and immersed in family-work routines.
Injuries and diseases can also keep you out of the waves for a while. And if you've eventually relocated inland, surfing is something you only experience in your dreams. But don't say you've quit surfing.
The trick is to think of surfing has a healing ritual - something you can do nearly every day of the week that will make you feel better. In a way, surfing is like having a shower: you always feel rejuvenated and relaxed after stepping out of the tub.
Yes, there will be days when it's too cold outside, or you're too tired to put on a wetsuit and paddle out. But surfing requires a few sacrifices from time to time. It's all about educating your lifestyle, and sculpting your headspace with things you know are good for you.
If, for any reason, you're tired of surfing or simply cannot stand being in the water surrounded by saltwater heads whose lives depend on the upcoming waves, just move away for a while.
For example, having kids is one of the reasons why people quit surfing. What was once free time or leisure time for doing things they loved, it is now a full-time family occupation.
But with little time management skills, you can always find a couple of hours to hit the waves, and feel the ocean vibes flow down your body. Is it flat? Get an inflatable stand-up paddle board and cruise the silky waters. Is it too big? Grab a pair of swim fins and go bodysurfing.
But don't quit surfing. Life changes a lot, and who knows you'll need it to reconnect with some of the best times of your youth. By the time you hit 40, 50 and 60, there will always be a longboard to make you happy in two-foot surf.
Surfing is more than medicine - it is a blessing. So, do yourself a favor - make sure you call a friend and go surfing together on a bright sunny day. It's good for your health and does wonders for your mind and soul.
Join the dawn patrol, and surf through the sunset. Still not ready? Embrace mind surfing, and plan your comeback today. Live the dream.