Concussions in surfing: the silent impact on brain and mental health
Surfers are more exposed to impacts on their heads than one might think. Concussions in surfing are a real thing and have become a major concern among the wave-riding community.
What happens when we hit our heads on water or sand? Is it negligible? Does it have consequences?
What is the difference between a simple bump on the head and a concussion? Should we immediately seek medical help?
A concussion is a type of brain injury that takes place when the brain is shaken inside the skull, usually due to a blow to the head or a sudden jolt.
Imagine your brain as a soft organ floating in fluid inside your skull.
When your head takes a hit, the brain can bounce or twist, leading to damage to brain cells and temporary changes in how the brain functions.
Symptoms of a concussion can vary but often include headaches, dizziness, confusion, memory problems, and sometimes nausea or vomiting.
The effects can show up right away or develop over a few hours or days.
Concussions are serious because even though the brain usually recovers, it needs time and rest to heal properly.
Repeated concussions, especially if they happen before the brain fully heals from a previous one, can lead to long-term problems with memory, thinking, mood, and even physical abilities.
If someone suspects they have a concussion, they should avoid activities that could cause another blow to the head and seek medical attention to make sure they recover safely.
Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI) and Computed Tomography (CT) scans, diffusion tensor imaging (DTI), single photon emission computed tomography (SPECT) scans, videonystagmography (VNG), or regular neuro-ophthalmology eye exams can help detect brain injury.
Sleeping, resting, hydration, and a good and healthy diet are the first steps to recovery.
Concussions in Surfing
Surfing is not a high-contact sport like boxing, martial arts, rugby, American football, or gymnastics.
However, a surfer's head is sometimes exposed to occasionally minor, medium, or high-impact events.
Whether you're a beginner, intermediate, or advanced wave rider, there's always a chance of hitting your skull on several surfaces while surfing.
Here's a list of potential hazards:
- Surfboards;
- Water;
- Sand;
- Reef/coral;
- Rocks;
- Piers or breakwaters;
Accidents do happen, and they're more frequent than one might think.
You would probably be surprised to know that 40 percent of all surf-related injuries involve the head.
A concussion can be caused by the simplest wipeout in which the surfer hits the water head-first on a small wave.
The injuries get worse in big-wave surfing scenarios, crowded lineups, and surf breaks with particularly dangerous ocean floors.
The number of surfers suffering from concussions is growing.
The phenomenon is raising the alarm in the community, especially given the consequences reported in the medium and long term.
Impact on Mental Health
Concussions can manifest differently. The most common immediate symptoms are mostly physical:
- Headaches;
- Dizziness, vomiting, or nausea;
- Lack of motor coordination and difficulty balancing;
- Light sensitivity;
- Blurred or double vision;
- Tinnitus;
- Convulsions;
But there is more to concussions than the exclusively physical damage or external symptoms that they might inflict on a surfer's brain.
For instance, the cumulative effect of several micro-concussions sustained over several years can take a toll on mental health.
This silent type of traumatic brain injury (TBI) can easily go undiagnosed.
The surfer can mistakenly associate episodes of headaches, sleep disturbances, mood changes, trouble with thinking, memory, or concentration, and depression with the natural course of life when, in fact, it is not.
Sterling Spencer's TBI
Take Sterling Spencer's case, for instance.
He got hit in the head surfing, had a cut, and didn't think about it until a few days after.
Within a month, Spencer was wearing a neckbrace; in six months, the surfer comedian couldn't even walk.
"Before I lost my ability to walk, I couldn't stop walking," explained Sterling.
"My brain was going 100 miles an hour, and I just walked all day long. I walked in the neighborhood all night. And then, I collapsed."
The first doctor said he had nothing wrong. The second said, "You're depressed." And he was prescribed Xanax.
"It was hard to go down that route, but I had no choice because my nervous system was going bananas."
"And I was hallucinating heavily, and my family didn't know what to think: 'Is he secretly doing drugs?'"
"When you get a brain injury, you're so emotional. Everything is so intense."
"I was going in and out of reality. I remember that for two weeks, I just lay and then come out of it and say, 'I got to get help.' And then I would go back into that state."
A visit to a therapist and a Chinese medicine practitioner helped find the cause of all those mental issues - a surfing accident.
Acupuncture, meat, fish oil, supplements, and magnetic stimulation put Sterling Spencer on the road to recovery.
But there was still pain, isolation, and loneliness.
"The hardest part is no one understands it. If people understood, I could've healed in probably two years. It's been five years, and I'm probably 50 percent."
Traumatic Brain Injury in Pro Surfing
Sterling Spencer wasn't the only public figure victim of concussions.
In 2015, Australian Championship Tour (CT) Owen Wright surfer suffered a near-fatal wipeout at Pipeline.
The severe concussion led to a minor bleed on the brain and a consequent TBI. The event forced him to retire from competitive surfing.
India Robinson, also a CT surfer, had to put her elite surfing on hold after several concussions started draining her energy and brain health.
Big-wave waterman Kai Lenny has had a few minor impact events throughout his career, but a wipeout at Pipeline caused serious damage.
A severe concussion followed by bleeding out of his ear made him re-evaluate his priorities and safety procedures, with protective headgear being one of them.
Helmets Can Save Your Life
The use of helmets in surfing has been slowly gaining supporters.
In the past, it might have been considered a kook item, but in reality, it can make the difference between life and death.
Not only can a helmet prevent concussions from knocking someone unconscious in the water, followed by drowning, but it can also remove minor impacts to the head from the equation.
The accumulation of several minor blows to a surfer's head can lead to prolonged, expensive, and life-draining periods of recovery.
The industry is developing new solutions that can be used in the surf.
We're talking about specially laid-out carbon fiber structures that absorb the force from the crash or hit and spread it across the helmet.
The Healing Brainwaves Foundation
Concussions are still pretty much unknown territory for most surfers.
The Healing Brainwaves Foundation is a nonprofit organization dedicated to supporting individuals recovering from brain injuries by providing comprehensive information on treatment options.
Founded in 2020, the foundation emerged from the recognition that insights from fellow brain injury patients can be just as valuable as medical advice.
The organization was created by Audrey Lambidakis, a surf photographer who realized that patient-recommended treatments often proved more effective during her own recovery journey.
The foundation's mission is to share reliable, experience-based treatment information verified by medical professionals and to offer financial assistance to those in need of care.
The NGO's website is also a platform where patients can share and rate their treatment experiences, which are then reviewed by doctors specializing in brain injuries.
The collaborative approach helps demystify the brain recovery process, offering personalized guidance and support for individuals on their healing journey.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com