If you're obsessed with completing a two-surfboard transfer, start your training in small waves. But if you want to get barreled, you've got to learn with the master.
When Jamie O'Brien picked up two beginner soft top surfboards into the line-up for the first time, people asked themselves: "What is he doing now?"
The Hawaiian Pipe master had the entire plan memorized.
Surfboard Into Barrel 101
Let's review his major guidelines:
- Get two foam surfboards. Why? Because you don't want to get hurt, and you don't want to break your favorite plank;
- Ignore the eyes on the beach, forget your fellow surfers in the line-up;
- Paddle out with the second board under your chest and fins up;
- Pick the right wave, and take off;
- Grab the board off the front with one hand, and spin it around;
- Smoothly complete the surfboard transfer;
- Pull in, come out, and claim your ride;
In this particular case, remember not to wear a leash.
Otherwise, you will drag the first surfboard as you ride the second one, resulting in unwanted accidents, wipeouts, or injuries.
The board-to-board transfer is an advanced surfing technique.
Only experienced surfers should try this at their local breaks. Watch out for other wave riders.