Jeff Rowley, an Australian big wave surfer, paddled into historic 50-foot plus (15m+) waves at Jaws, Peahi, without jet ski support.
Rowley and his girlfriend/videographer Minnie Vuong, from Torquay Victoria, have based themselves in Hawaii for three months to catch and document the monster North Pacific winter storm surf.
The surf at Peahi, also known as "Jaws, " is considered the world's biggest and most dangerous.
Until recently, it was considered impossible to catch and ride without a jet ski tow-in and foot straps.
Rowley and a small group of big wave surfers, including Shane Dorian and Garret McNamara, pushed the boundaries of big wave surfing by refusing to tow in and choosing to paddle into the monster waves.
"The waves were moving about 50k’s an hour, and the wind was absolutely howling, so every instinct is telling you it can't be done, but we did it - it's unbelievable," Rowley said.
Rowley became the first Australian surfer to paddle into the infamous waves at Jaws.
"I’m so proud to be the first Aussie to paddle in at Jaws. It was a historic day, and we pushed the limits and survived". During the historic session, Rowley rode a special 10’2” (3m) Al Merrick quad fin surfboard designed for 30-40 foot (10-12m) waves, but it nearly wasn’t enough.
"My 10’2” is my biggest board, but Jaws is so big and so powerful it felt like I was riding a toothpick - I need an 11-foot plus board!" Rowley and other surfers surfaced from wiping out under the waves thanks to buoyancy jackets and a new emergency inflatable airbag wetsuit.
"Having a buoyancy jacket and the emergency inflatable wetsuit definitely gave me peace of mind that I would surface after a wipe-out, I don’t want to surf big waves again without one."
Raising Money for Breast Cancer
Rowley’s biggest ride involved a vertical freefall takeoff from the top of a wave, which could have ended in disaster.
"I was going to catch that wave no matter what happened. It was massive, and I was in the right position, and it was my time to go for it. I stood up, and the wind hit me and tried to rip my board from under my feet as I started freefalling; I couldn’t see a thing, but I pushed down as hard as I could and made the ride".
"It was like trying to catch and ride a Tyrannosaurus Rex with your bare hands - the best thrill, but you’re so glad to be alive."
Rowley’s biggest wave fulfilled his personal "Charge For Charity" quest to paddle into a 50-foot wave whilst raising money for Breast Cancer Australia.
Rowley’s rides from Jaws will be entered into the 2011-12 Billabong XXL Global Big Wave surfing awards.
Rowley remains in Hawaii, preparing for giant surf, which may hit somewhere in the North Pacific in the coming weeks.