Shane Dorian and friends give their life to surfing in "Vague à l'Âme"

May 21, 2018 | Surfing
Vague à l'Âme: giving your life

A perfect big wave can change your life. Not only will it put you under the media spotlight, but it will also open new sponsorship opportunities and invitations to elite contests.

"Vague à l'Âme" follows Shane Dorian and his partners in crime, Benjamin Sanchis, Justin Becret, and Jack Robinson, as they chase some of the most dangerous waves on the planet.

"For me, the real award is to get a wave I can remember forever. That's the real goal," stresses Dorian, the man who is always where the most significant storms are.

Directed by Vincent Kardasik, the 4K movie captures intense, life-threatening moments and the raw emotions lived by a group of adrenaline fanatics.

The adventure starts and ends at Nazaré's Praia do Norte, the notorious Portuguese beach break which has been setting new records nearly every year.

But it also pays a visit to Jaws and Mullaghmore.

It's quite rare to find a surf movie released with a French title. "Vague à l'Âme" includes two words that have been intrinsically connected with surf culture: wave (vague) and soul (âme).

However, the French expression should be translated as a state of sadness and melancholy.

And how does that relate to the movie itself? Why do big-wave surfers feel down after riding the wave of a lifetime?

The answer is in "Vague à l'Âme," a documentary that will open the door into the big wave surfing life of some of the most prominent names of the sport.