Surfer, environmentalist, and writer Steve Hawk once said: "The best wave of your life is still out there."
That statement is true, especially if you see your surfing career as a half-full glass, still full of pleasures, dreams, and potentially memorable rides.
In a way, if you think that the wave of your surfing life is still to come, you have reasons to be happy because you definitely are a positive individual - an optimistic surfer who truly believes that the ultimate wave is right around the corner.
And they mind-surf eternally until it's game over.
For many others, however, greatness is a thing of the past, something you lived intensely and cherish as a fond memory of a special day.
And that's fine, too. Memories are living landscapes that inhabit our persona.
But what makes the best wave of your life? What are the emotional, physical, and non-palpable characteristics of the greatest ride of our lives?
Can you put that into words? Well, let's try it:
1. The Perfection of The Wave
Do you remember that perfect peeling right-hander that marched flawlessly down the line that day at your favorite surf break?
Can you still see that wave that only broke under very specific ocean and weather conditions?
Do you look toward the future and imagine an endless wave that was made for you and sent by metaphysical forces?
2. The Size of The Wave
Each one of us has a preferred wave size.
Some surfers like it small; others only really feel fulfilled with double overhead barrels.
But all of us have a preference, a determined wave height in which we feel comfortable and confident. Can you picture your dream wave?
3. The Spot Where It Breaks
Who needs a perfect wave that breaks in a surf pool, surrounded by concrete, plastics, and mechanical arms, when we can find it in our backyard?
The truth is that you can't beat the place where we feel at home, bounded by nature and that we got used to seeing when we waited for the waves.
4. The Hour of the Day
Light changes everything, and the difference between dawn and dusk is immeasurable.
Depending on your geographical location, you can be getting barreled against the sun or launched into the air with the sun on your back.
5. The People, or The Solitude, Surrounding the Experience
Some surfers believe that wave riding is an individual, very personal, spiritual experience that can only be achieved in a secluded location, completely isolated from other human beings.
A religion with Mother Nature as a goddess. Others will need to share their joy with their fellow surfers.
6. The Technical Performance of the Ride
Sometimes, it just happens.
As the wave starts to break, our muscles and bones align with the liquid-moving slope, and suddenly, magic happens.
The move we've trained for months, the subtle body shift we never tried, and the perfect wave analysis work together in unison to create a smooth, inimitable, and unforgettable ride down the line.
7. The Inner Joy It Triggered
As human beings, we live a nonlinear life full of nonlinear emotional states.
And sometimes, a special wave may arrive to bless a particular moment of our existence.
That's when the feeling of enchantment grows inside your chest, and you know that you won't forget that one and only wave for the rest of your life.