Shane Dorian: big wave charger

Shane Dorian is one of the best big-wave surfers in the world. At 40, the Hawaiian charger is scoring the greatest rides of his life.

Shane Dorian was born on July 19, 1972, in Kailua, Hawaii. His parents - Patrick and Susan - had physical professions and activities.

Shane's father was a Hollywood actor and stunt double for Elvis Presley, while Susan participated in bodybuilding contests.

The tiny and agile kid from the Big Island soon turned his eyes to the ocean. With his friend Mike Stewart, Shane rode his first waves on a bodyboard.

At 5, he got his first surfboard. Ten years later, at the Gotcha Pro in Sandy Beach, Shane Dorian defeated a few high-ranked surfers and met friends who would improve his surfing skills.

In 1993, Shane Dorian reached the ASP World Tour. During his 11 years at the Dream Tour, the Hawaiian won the Rip Curl Pro (1999) and the Billabong Pro Mundaka (2000).

Shane Dorian: the greatest wave of his life

In 2004, Shane Dorian left the ASP World Tour to become a big-wave surfer. Correction: one of the best big wave surfers of all time.

"I've never really changed my priorities. Ever since I was a kid, my goal's been to be happy and have fun."

His incredible wave rides in extreme conditions have been gaining media attention year by year. Shane Dorian wins the "Ride of the Year" at the Billabong XXL Awards in 2008.

The surf movie industry has featured Shane Dorian in famous full-length films.

"In God's Hands," "Thicker Than Water," "Solid: The Two Days That Teahupoo Blew Minds," "Campaign 2," and "A Fly in the Champagne" capture Dorian's breathtaking rides.

At the end of 2012, Shane Dorian surfed one of the best waves of his life at Jaws, Peahi. But the ultimate surfing goal is still on the horizon.

"I'll always be working on all aspects of my surfing, but right now, I can't wait to surf a 100-foot wave. I can't wait. Let me at it."

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