Surfing: there's always a story behind our first wave

Surfers will always remember their first real wave. But why did we start surfing? Was it a magazine, a friend, or a surf video that ignited our desire to ride the ocean's energy?

Surf addicts never miss a chance to get to the nearest break, whether it is cloudy, rainy, or sunny.

We are surfers today. No matter what happens in the future, we will never look at the ocean the same way again.

When we drive along the beach, watch a surfer on television, spot a surfboard on a car rack, or hear someone talking about waves on public transport... we know that surfing changes lives.

So what made us start? What's the reason for the surfboard under our feet?

Why Should You Start Surfing?

There are thousands of explanations behind our individual surf histories. Let's take a look at the most common ones:

  1. Your parents, older sisters, or brothers surf;
  2. You live next to a popular surf spot;
  3. Your best friends were surfers;
  4. Someone offered you a surfboard;
  5. You really wanted to learn how to surf;
  6. You got pumped by a big wave surfing feature on television;
  7. You saw a perfect surf photo in a surf magazine;
  8. You heard dozens of stories about the benefits of surfing;
  9. You love the ocean, and you're not afraid of the waves;
  10. You felt attracted by the surfers' lifestyle;
  11. You wanted to meet good-looking girls or boys;
  12. You had nothing to do in your long summer holidays;
  13. You couldn't resist a beautiful surfboard and bought it;
  14. You wanted to impress your work colleagues;
  15. Your other half insisted you should give surfing a go;
  16. You loved the surf wax smell;
  17. You think surfing is highly trendy;
  18. You thought it would be easy to learn how to surf;
  19. You love The Beach Boys;
  20. You saw someone older than you mastering the waves;
  21. You heard how surfing changed someone's life;
  22. You think surfboards are objects of design;
  23. You believe surfing positively changes the human body;
  24. You tried bodyboarding, and you wanted to stand up on a board;
  25. You feel inexplicably attracted by the ocean waves;
  26. You believe there's a spiritual connection between surfing and the afterlife;
  27. You wanted to be like Kelly Slater;
  28. You wanted to defeat cymophobia, i.e., the fear of waves and swell;
  29. You wanted to break the routine of office life;
  30. You wanted to do something you'd never done before;
  31. You love water sports;
  32. You thought surfers had so much fun;
  33. Your father is a surfboard shaper;
  34. You were suffering from depression;
  35. You thought surfing was unpredictable and always different;
  36. You were lost in life;
  37. You fell in love with a surf movie;
  38. You lived next to a surf shop;
  39. You felt an inexplicable need to surf;
  40. You were a good swimmer;
  41. You had nothing else to do in your small coastal village;
  42. You loved skateboarding;
  43. You think everybody surfs;
  44. It's the oceanic equivalent of snowboarding;
  45. You found a surfboard in the attic;
  46. You discovered celebrities gliding waves;
  47. You found out surfing is a cheap sport;
  48. You thought it a good way to start a weekend;
  49. You wanted a good excuse to travel frequently;
  50. You saw surfing as the coolest sport;

If you're already a surfer, discover a few things you didn't know about surfing.

If you want to start surfing, take a look at the best surfboards for beginners.

Dive into 25 very good reasons why surfing is so addictive.

Top Stories

Oaxaca is one of Mexico's surfing treasure states. The south-facing territory receives privileged swells from the Pacific with a rugged coastline that produces all types of waves.

Cole Houshmand and Caitlin Simmers have claimed the 2024 Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach.

At 32, Laura Enever is slowly building a name in women's big wave surfing. And to make her vlogger debut on YouTube, the Australian chose Cloudbreak.

Wind is a fascinating weather phenomenon. It is a variable constantly trying to find a perfect balance on a planetary scale.