The spirit of a traditional Hawaiian wooden surfboard
Tom "Pohaku" Stone is a legendary native Hawaiian wave rider who has dedicated his life to protecting and spreading the Hawaiian culture and heritage.
He truly epitomizes and embodies the concept of the waterman.
In this beautifully edited short film directed by Bradley Tangonan, we are invited to witness and understand the original roots of surfing.
The process of "building" is a surfboard involves more than the wood itself. It is also a spiritual ritual that transcends craftsmanship and embraces the elements and the gods.
"As a kid, I wanted a surfboard - that brand new shiny fiberglass surfboard. My dad got a piece of wood, started carving it in the traditional way," explains "Pohaku" Stone.
"At the end of it, I told my dad I hated it. I didn't want it. He just took the board, threw it in the fire pit, and burned it."
"One night I go to sleep and start to have dreams. And I remember the board. That was the beginning of my journey. A search for that essence of what surfing really is all about - tradition," explains the Hawaiian surfer.