Shaun Walsh: no worries, it is only water

Big wave surfers Jeff Rowley, Greg Long, Shaun Walsh, and Albee Layer have paddled into gigantic 15-meter (50-foot) plus waves at Peahi "Jaws" and cement paddling in as the new frontier in big wave surfing.

Rowley and friends were in Maui, Hawaii, waiting for the monster surf to hit the Peahi "Jaws" reef and produce the world's biggest surfable waves.

On one of the biggest waves of the day, Rowley took off underneath the pitching lip of the wave.

"As the wave was coming, I knew I was in the right position; I didn't want to waste any energy paddling. Just turn around and go."

"It just picked me up perfectly; It felt like I was riding a magic carpet with my heart in my mouth."

In doing so, Rowley's ride has skyrocketed into two categories of the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave awards; "Ride of The Year" and "Monster Energy Monster Paddle In".

"Everything I have worked hard and trained for all my life helped me pull off a ride like this." Rowley specializes in breath enhancement training to maximize underwater time without oxygen and maintain calm in extreme situations.

Rowley's special 10'2'' (3 meters) Channel Islands surfboard, designed for monster waves, was dubbed by fellow surfers as the "Magic Carpet."

"My board has been hammered by waves and rocks, but I trust it with my life."

On one of the biggest waves of the day, Rowley suffered a horrific wipeout and was pounded so deep he was forced to pull his emergency inflatable airbag wetsuit with a mini scuba tank to return to the surface.

"It was like being caught in a giant cement mixer; it pushed me so deep my ears were hurting, and I didn't think I was coming up; I'm lucky I was able to inflate," Rowley said.

Rowley continues his personal "Charge For Charity," a quest to paddle in to a 50-foot wave and overcome his fears whilst raising money for Breast Cancer Australia.

"I am grateful to everyone who has supported my Charge For Charity; I'm overcoming my fears, which are nothing compared to fighting a life-threatening disease or illness."

Watch the bombs coming in.

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