Author: Ricky Grigg
Pioneer big wave surfer Rick Grigg has led a life of adventure: from big-wave surfing and deep diving to pushing the boundaries of oceanography.
Readers will surf to the top of the world's tallest waves and dive to the bottom of the world's deepest reefs with Ricky Grigg, a surfer who became an oceanographer.
Revisit the early days of surfing in California and Hawaii from the 1940s to the 1960s. This book is richly illustrated with over 140 historic photographs and graphics spanning 50 years, many never before published.