Have you ever felt like a small animal in front of a giant mountain of water ready to fall on you? Well, duck-diving might be the antidote to that feeling when you experience it for real out in the water. But how can we assure the perfect duck-dive for a 10-foot breaking wave?
The secret lies in both practice and momentum; knowing the right time for starting your emergency procedure. First of all, make sure you paddle towards the oncoming wave. Yes, you should really gain speed and should not wait for it to come.
Push the rails downwards, with your both hands, sinking the nose of your surfboard as deeply as possible. Take a deep and calm breath and submerge. As soon as you enter the water, press your board with your knee or foot to make the surfboard flow under the rolling wave.
At the same time, try to redirect the nose of your surfboard to the surface, where you think it's safe to emerge. As soon as possible, start paddling out as fast as you can, so you don't get "sucked" by the opposite energy carried by the wave.
Duck-diving is harder for the lightest bodies because skinny surfers tend to find keeping stability underwater with a buoyant board harder than average-sized and heavy athletes do. Nevertheless, training can improve anyone's duck-diving skills against the scariest water foam monsters.