- 09 August 2012 | Surfing
Surfers only ride a wave for an average time of six seconds and the waves of their lives only happen from time to time.
The fact is that in surfing, it's rare to meet someone who quit surfing because he didn't enjoy the feeling of walking on water. Surfers have more fair surf sessions than epic moments in crystal clear water waves. The best ridden waves of their lives only once in a while.
Despite onshore surfing days, one foot waves, cold water and choppy waters, surfers always return to the scene of crime. Why is surfing so addictive? Is it different from soccer, running, swimming and tennis?
Right. Surfing is an highly addictive water sport and one of the most popular boardsports ever invented. There are over 20 million surfers in the world and the number is growing fast.
There are, at least, 25 very good reasons why surfing is so addictive. Let's check them out:
1. Riding a wave is a breathless experience
2. Adrenaline injections pump our heart and blood
3. Sun, salt and sand are a virtuous blend
4. Oceans have a positive impact on human health
5. The best way to forget your daily problems
6. You're alone with everybody
7. Every wave is a different feeling
8. You're compelled to surf better each day
9. There are waves in every corner of the world
10. It's a great way of living life
11. A beer tastes better after a surf session
12. Personal surfing photos are inestimable
13. Only a surfer knows the feeling
14. The cultural history of surfing through time
15. There's always the next surfboard to be bought
16. Surfing makes you feel alive
17. The first wave ride is unforgettable
18. Weather forecasts are never 100% accurate
19. Humans love water
20. Each ridden wave is a personal story
21. Gods seem to be around in the best waves of your life
23. Wax smells nice
24. Surfboards are objects of design and desire
25. The drive to exploring and discover new surf spots
Have we missed a good reason why surfing is so addictive? Send it to editor(at)surfertoday.com .
Added by SurferToday readers:
26. Hawaiian Reason #1: because it links Hawaiians to their past
27. Hawaiian Reason #2: it is a traditional way of self expression and display of true character
28. Hawaiian Reason #3: it connects Hawaiians to the ocean and the things that exists with and within it