Surfers only ride a wave for an average time of six seconds, and the waves of their lives only happen from time to time.
But in this sport, it's rare to meet someone who quit surfing because he or she didn't enjoy the feeling of walking on water. Surfers have more fair surf sessions on average than they do epic moments in crystal clear waves. The best rides of their lives come along only once in a while.
So, despite onshore surfing days, one foot waves, cold water and choppy waters, surfers always return to the scene of the crime. Why is surfing so addictive? Is it any different from other sports, such as soccer, running, swimming or tennis?
Surfing is highly addictive. It's one of the most popular board sports ever invented. There are over 20 million surfers in the world, and the number is growing fast.
Each surfer will have his or her own list of reasons they are drawn so irresistibly to the sport, but accounting for commonality, here are, 25 very good reasons why surfing is so addictive:
1. Riding a wave is a breathless experience
2. Adrenaline injections pump our heart and blood
3. Sun, salt and sand are a virtuous blend
4. Oceans have a positive impact on human health
5. The best way to forget your daily problems is to face bigger challenges
6. In the lineup, you're alone with everybody
7. Every wave has a different feeling
8. As you progress, you're compelled to surf better each day
9. There are waves in every corner of the world
10. It's a great way of living life
11. A beer tastes better after a surf session
12. Personal surfing photos are inestimable
13. Only a surfer knows the feeling
14. There's a deep sense of connection with the cultural history of surfing through time
15. There's always the next surfboard to be bought
16. Surfing makes you feel alive
17. The first wave ride is unforgettable
18. Weather forecasts are never 100% accurate, adding to thrill
19. Humans love water
20. Each ridden wave is a personal story
21. Gods seem to be around during the best waves of your life
23. Wax smells nice
24. Surfboards are objects of design and desire
25. The drive to exploring and discover new surf spots intensifies with time
Have we missed a good reason why surfing is so addictive? Send it to editor (at) surfertoday.com .
Added by SurferToday readers:
26. Hawaiian Reason #1: Because it links Hawaiians to their past
27. Hawaiian Reason #2: It is a traditional way of self-expression and display of true character
28. Hawaiian Reason #3: It connects Hawaiians to the ocean and the things that exists with and within it