- 15 November 2012 | Surfing
The life of Jay Moriarity was changed forever when he met Richard "Frosty" Hesson, in 1990, in Santa Cruz, Northern California. Jay wanted to be like Frosty and he managed to surf Mavericks, at Half Moon Bay.
Big wave surfer Jay Moriarity had the best tutor he could've had: Frosty Hesson. The man behind the construction of a legend in the history of surfing is a Santa Cruz icon, too.
Hesson defended the four pillars of a solid human foundation: physical, mental, emotional and spiritual. The waterman passed his knowledge to Jay, as seen in the biopic surf movie "Chasing Mavericks".
Frosty Hesson started surfing in California in 1963. After gaining experience in the cold waters of Santa Cruz, he joined a group of wave explorers in the Mavericks challenge, in the 1980's.
The life of Frosty Hesson has not been easy, though. The experienced big wave rider lived a turbulent youth. He had a swimming and water polo career and was raised a Southern Baptist.
His adult days were difficult, too. While training Jay Moriarity for the Mavericks mission, Frosty loses his second wife Brenda. The Pleasure Point local knows the behavior of the colossal Mavericks waves like no one. But the death of Jay Moriarity changed perspectives.
"After Jay's passing I just did not find the joy at Mavs I once had. Too many memories. My kids were getting older and needed more of my time and I was in a new relationship", Frosty Hesson told in an interview.
Richard "Frosty" Hesson has never quit surfing, in its many angles. The Mavericks master kept catching waves and started a successful career in surf training and coaching.
The mentor of Jay Moriarity is a blonde-turned-platinum hair gentleman. He is seen at Pleasure Point, almost every day. The first-person life story of Frosty Hesson is documented in the book "Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend".
"If you’re having a bad day, catch a wave". Discover the best quotes and sayings by Frosty Hesson.