Surfing, Kiteboarding, Windsurfing and Bodyboarding News Center. Breaking News, Surfing Games, Surf Movies, Board Size Charts, Surf Videos, Wind and Wave Forecasts, Surf Shop, Surf Spots, Surf Cams, Surf Travel.
The Frosty Hesson memoirs of the Mavericks big wave rides
Thursday, 15 November 2012 10:49

Frosty Hesson: chasing Mavericks since the 1980s

The life of Jay Moriarity was changed forever when he met Richard "Frosty" Hesson, in 1990, in Santa Cruz, Northern California. Jay wanted to be like Frosty and he managed to surf Mavericks, at Half Moon Bay.


Big wave surfer Jay Moriarity had the best tutor he could've had: Frosty Hesson. The man behind the construction of a legend in the history of surfing is a Santa Cruz icon, too.

Hesson defended the four pillars of a solid human foundation: physical, mental, emotional and spiritual. The waterman passed his knowledge to Jay, as seen in the biopic surf movie "Chasing Mavericks".

Frosty Hesson started surfing in California in 1963. After gaining experience in the cold waters of Santa Cruz, he joined a group of wave explorers in the Mavericks challenge, in the 1980's.

The life of Frosty Hesson has not been easy, though. The experienced big wave rider lived a turbulent youth. He had a swimming and water polo career and was raised a Southern Baptist.

His adult days were difficult, too. While training Jay Moriarity for the Mavericks mission, Frosty loses his second wife Brenda. The Pleasure Point local knows the behavior of the colossal Mavericks waves like no one. But the death of Jay Moriarity changed perspectives.

"After Jay's passing I just did not find the joy at Mavs I once had. Too many memories. My kids were getting older and needed more of my time and I was in a new relationship", Frosty Hesson told in an interview.

Richard "Frosty" Hesson has never quit surfing, in its many angles. The Mavericks master kept catching waves and started a successful career in surf training and coaching.

The mentor of Jay Moriarity is a blonde-turned-platinum hair gentleman. He is seen at Pleasure Point, almost every day. The first-person life story of Frosty Hesson is documented in the book "Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend".

"If you’re having a bad day, catch a wave".


 

Join our surfing community in Facebook!   Get the top news stories in your Twitter account!   SurferToday.com on Google +   Follow us on Pinterest   SurferToday on Youtube

The best surf watches in the world
Wave Height Forecast
Wind Speed and Direction Forecast
Wave Period
Surf Videos
Surf Books
Surf Movies
Online Surfing Games

SURFING

Things you didn't know about surfing
23/05/2013
article thumbnail

The history of surfing is very rich. There are multiple facts and figures surrounding the evolution of wave riding, through time. Some are strange, others are deeply bizarre.
From the innovative surf gear to maritime science, surfing has been collecting stories, records and achievements. Did you know that... 1. The Hawaiian Islands are the most isolated archipelago on planet earth.
2. The windiest surf city in the world is Wellington, capital of New Zealand.
3. The tallest tsunami ever record [ ... ]


The surf earplugs that allow you to hear
22/05/2013
article thumbnail

The new Seals Balance Pro by EQ earplugs allow surfers to protect their ears and hear everything when wearing them.
When spring and summer start, everyone surfs more often. Also, all-year round surfers are more exposed to severe ear injuries, such as the surfer's ear (Exostosis) and swimmer's ear (Otitis). This problem can be developed after 3000 hours of cold water surfing. Neoprene hoodies and ear plugs are the best way to avoid surgery.


+ Surfing News

KITEBOARDING

"Kite Surfer" is the new wind riding game for iOS
22/05/2013
article thumbnail

"Kite Surfer" is the latest kitesurfing game for iPhone and iPad.
Lemondo Entertainment has announced the release of its newest game, "Kite Surfer", an arcade kitesurfing game designed for both iPhone and iPad. "Kite Surfer" is an endless running game, in which players take control of a character by swiping on the display or tilting a mobile device.


Pudla Narapichit hailed Kiteboard Tour Asia 2012/2013 champion
21/05/2013
article thumbnail

Pudla Narapichit and Doque Delos Santos have been crowned the Kiteboard Tour Asia 2012/2013 champions.
With 120 riders from 30 countries, the final and decisive Chinese stage once again broke all records, at Pingtan Island, also known as Haitan Island. The spot is regarded as China's windiest location - regular wind speeds of over 30 knots are recorded over the winter monsoon season and all of the island's old traditional style stone houses need to have rocks placed on top of their tiled roo [ ... ]


+ Kitesurfing News

WINDSURFING

Dieter van der Eyken dominates the 2013 Belgian Wave Windsurfing season
23/05/2013
article thumbnail

Dieter van der Eyken is one step closer of being crowned the 2013 Belgian Wave Windsurfing champion.
Bredene, in the Belgian province of West Flanders, held an intense weekend of wave windsurfing action. On Friday, all sailors completed the single elimination of the competition, despite the medium size waves and light winds.


Delphine Cousin stands out in the 2013 French Windsurfing Championship
23/05/2013
article thumbnail

Delphine Cousin is shining a light in the 2013 French Windsurfing Championship, with a victory in the second stage, held in Brest.
Despite the difficult conditions - three days of disoriented and gusty winds - sailors were able to complete two races. The organization worked hard to try to get more races, but even if the windsurfing fleet had spent many hours on the water every day, nothing could be done.


+ Windsurfing News

BODYBOARDING

Nuno Azevedo sweeps fourth Luso Galaico Championship title
22/05/2013
article thumbnail

Nuno Azevedo has conquered the bodyboarding division of the XV Luso Galaico Championship, a competition between Portuguese and Galician riders.
Up to 64 bodyboarders and surfers from the North of Portugal and the Spanish region of Galicia have competed at Cabedelo Beach and Arda Beach, in Viana do Castelo. With a mobile structure and a new live scoring system, the level of competition was high in the 2-4 foot waves on offer. Portuguese riders claimed four out of five titles at the XV Luso Ga [ ... ]


What happens in Teahupoo stays in Teahupoo
22/05/2013
article thumbnail

What happens in Teahupoo stays in Teahupoo. Don't tell anyone about the wipeouts you're about to witness.
When surfers are out of the game, bodyboarders go for it. During the infamous mid-May swell of 2013, a group of prone riders decided to taste the real power of the Tahitian barrel. Maui Leetham, Richard Niko, Jurd Heimana, Thibault Casabianca, John Duval prepared their boards, leashes and cameras and paddled into the devil, with fin power only.


+ Bodyboarding News